Beauty

Silab unveils Metallomia, a detoxifying active ingredient for menopausal skin

Naomi SekiguchiNovember 12, 20265 min read1 views

At a glance

  • The French ingredient maker's patented active targets a ferritinophagy deficiency to counter iron loss and metallo-ageing, with claimed barrier, radiance and spot-fading benefits.
  • Silab has launched Metallomia, a patented active ingredient with 100% natural-origin content that it says relaunches ferritinophagy to counter iron deficiency in menopausal skin. The company reports barrier reinforcement, a more radiant complexion and reduced pigment spots in volunteer testing, supported by a traced French marshmallow-root supply chain.
Translucent layered skin forms with fine metallic particles moving through delicate channels, framed by marshmallow root silhouettes and a glass vessel of clear solution under soft studio light.

Silab, the French manufacturer of cosmetic active ingredients, has introduced Metallomia, a detoxifying active ingredient developed specifically for menopausal skin. According to the company, the ingredient is designed around a deficiency in ferritinophagy, the mechanism that ensures the controlled release of iron to meet the needs of skin cells.

Silab says its work rests on a new modelling study of menopausal skin, which pointed to a shortfall in this process. A deficiency of ferritinophagy during menopause induces a lack of bioavailable iron, which the company links to premature skin ageing, a phenomenon it calls metallo-ageing. UV radiation is said to amplify the effect, because it favours the degradation of iron/ferritin complexes and leads to a massive, uncontrolled release of iron, causing significant oxidative stress.

A targeted mechanism

Metallomia is presented as acting on that mechanism by relaunching ferritinophagy in menopausal skin. Silab says the active facilitates the provision of iron and relaunches the main epidermal functions. In addition, by reducing iron/ferritin complexes, it is claimed to limit oxidative stress when skin is exposed to UV.

Claimed effects in volunteers

According to Silab, this targeted mechanism significantly reduces metallo-ageing. From 14 days, the skin of Caucasian volunteers was reported to be revitalised, with a reinforced skin barrier and a more unified, radiant complexion. In Asian volunteers, pigment spots were said to be significantly reduced after 28 days. The company also reports that when applied by Caucasian volunteers before UV exposure, the ingredient prevents lipid peroxidation, and that the appearance of redness is limited within hours after exposure.

Marshmallow root sourcing

For Metallomia, Silab focused on the molecular composition of marshmallow roots, which are particularly rich in mucilages, and set up a traced supply chain with French partners. The supply has been validated against the criteria described in the European Pharmacopoeia and by authentication through DNA barcoding. To make use of the roots' mucilage content, the company developed a specific enzyme engineering process to extract polyuronides.

Formulation and compliance

Metallomia is a patented active ingredient recommended in all care products intended for menopausal skin at a dose of 0.5% to 2%. Supplied as an aqueous solution, it is described as easy to formulate. Silab says it complies with biodiversity regulations, has a natural origin content of 100% under ISO 16128, and meets international cosmetics regulations in Europe, the USA, China, Japan and other markets.

Reported by Naomi Sekiguchi, Fragrance and Sensory Analyst.